94EG8

Uhh, no. A few guys mated F-series accord engines to D-series transmissions back in the day because D-series trannys were dirt cheap and had a way better axle angle. (you could just as easily do an H-swap this way since H/F-series engines use the same bell housing bolt pattern) I can't think recall ever hearing about anyone mating a B-series engine to a D-series tranny though. D-series trannys do not have shorter gear ratios than B or H-series trannys. Case in point, a B-series LS tranny (the longest geared B-series) is geared about the same as an EX/Si D-series tranny (the shortest geared D-series) About the only thing D-series trannys have going for them is their extreme low price tag, relatively tough gearset and ease of rebuilding them.

speedjunkie_g35

I doubled my HP by going from a d15z1 to a b18c1, and only spent 1200 for a 80k motor with a new water pump and timing belt.

Don't go h2b yet. Sounds like you need something as simple as possible till you get the feel for things. As previously mentioned, spend plenty of time researching and reading. IT WILL SAVE YOU TIME AND MONEY.

If your sticking with your D, turbo is the only way!!!

vartok

personally, i would get the suspension squared away first anyway... I did that as well... making 230hp means nothing if you cant keep the car on the road

T_ypEr

Well, I'm just trying to figure out stuff for the future, so I don't know what my budget will be then. But I don't imagine it being that much.

Speaking of bolt-ons, what kind of exhaust systems would you guys recommend? Not something loud and farty, just something that gets the job done to increase flow.

T_ypEr

BTW, this is where I got the idea of a powerful D series:

http://www.d-series.org/forums/engin...-d16y8-z6.html

Wrona

this thread is so fail im sorry what exhaust stock... no exhaust will give u power no bolt ons will give you power please stop asking these questions and actually use the search

seriously if yopu don't search people will flame you

Kohen

"built d16vtec - 150-160 whp, 114-120 wtq, cost 3K (90% OEM parts)"
for 3k you can get a nice swap or go turbo and get a lot more than 160whp


"This chart is one that i compiled previously to compare swapping vs. building an NA D16 VTEC. The one thing you need to keep in mind is- if you need more than 160whp, either consider boosting or swapping, because even tho the D is a value, it has a low NA power ceiling vs. the DOHC."

furious94ls

Why are you ignoring everything we are saying OVER AND OVER again? Leave the car alone if you aren't in the process of doing a swap or turbo. What part don't you understand of "there is no way to get power with bolt on's" If you want a sound get a short ram, or cold air intake.

If you want an exhaust get the Apexi WS2. Don't expect any gain though. So add whatever you want to the damn car since you keep asking. Get a DC header, carsound or magnaflow high flow cat. Drop in a stage 1 cam, and have the car tuned. $3k later and you have gained 10-15hp if you are extremely lucky.

Wrona

some people just cant accept the truth
in the first place i dont even think this guy should even be touching anything on his car

before i even touched my car i read for months

Cap'N Chronic

I suggest you look into doing a B18A1 or B18B1 swap. Neither of these motors has vtec, but they're very common and easy to find parts for. The A1 comes out of any base model (LS/RS/GS) 90'-93' Integra, and the B1 comes out of any base model 94'-01' Integra.

They are very good motors if you're new to the Honda game, you can work on them and not be as worried about something going wrong. You could get a A1 or B1 from a junkyard for less than $300, then it's just a matter of piecing together the rest of the swap.

Just my .02

Kohen

People are mislead by false information. I remember when i thought a cold air intake, header, test pipe and muffler would give me 30 hp. It's just ignorance. Gotta start learning somewhere.
But OP, listen to what we're saying and do some research.
Start reading here: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/faqs-frequently-asked-tech-questions-1998336/

ssmtyper

T_ypEr

Everyone, thanks for putting up with my ignorance. Obviously, I'm not very knowledgable about Hondas and tuning yet, but I'm working on it. I know a lot of you guys are pretty fed up with me, and I apologize for that. Thank you so much for your input and I really appreciate it. I'll keep all this information in mind for future reference.

Linked

i'd like to answer the thread title with the following answer:

orgasms

m3tech95

Just get a turbo kit and save yourself the high pricetag..... if you ever decide to swap to a B-series, you can still use 95% of the turbo kit on the B series (minus fuel rail/exhanst manifold) other than that everything else is pretty much the same... you will also learn alot about how your car works without having to actually do any internal engine work...there are a ton of how-to's and write-ups to accomplish this if you have the patience and the space to do it over time... at your skill level i think that would be the best solution, once you get comfortable with working on your own car i would then suggest doing a swap as buying a B series swap that you havent seen running 1st (as most people do) could cause you alot more headaches and set you back even further.... go with what you know is in working condition (your current motor) and start there.. you can alsways swap at a later time..

Pros:
-Turbo cars are quieter than N/A cars
-You can still get somewhat good gas mileage (staying out of boost)
-You can easily acheive 230hp with a mild tune
-If you blow it, its an easy cheap motor to replace

Cons:
-You will want more HP in a short time..

NOFX

Meanwhile my GSR cost less than $3k. And I probably paid more than a lot of people.

His prices for engine swaps in that thread are not realistic. In the thread he said my motor would cost $4000 to swap in. It was honestly pretty straight forward. There was a bit of confusion over the right length header (B16 header is short enough and will clear the oil pan). The mounts I used are all included. I had to get a del Sol bracket for my a/c compressor. I decided to powdercoat all my mounts while I was at it too. Replaced the driver one AFTER the swap because it cracked afterward. Didn't make a mess or anything. Just noticed it in an inspection afterward.

Ummm... Hmm... trying to think of what else. Oh, I got a PCT to run it on and swapped the intake manifold for a Skunk2 one since I didn't want to deal with the butterflies. That was probably the two priciest items for the swap.
Maybe it's that I'm a lady, but I need a whole lot more than an N/A D-series to get me off.
This is where I kind of felt like I was coming from. I wanted to start with a better base to build off of. I have an engine that's rated at 170hp and I've done absolutely nothing to it so far. I still have plenty I can decide to do with it though. It's not like it's swap OR turbo. You can always build the engine up later on down the line. I plan to keep my car for a long time though, so power quickly isn't a huge concern to me.

But my engine is stock. Swapping it in was easy. I run zero risk from killing the motor by doing this upgrade. I don't know about working on internals so that would be a bigger learning experience that I feel I'm more likely to mess up.

canadaek

best resposne ever!!!!

NOFX

Thanks for the sig, Kohen. lol

Kohen

haha you're welcome. i thought it was pretty funny