tony_2018

Alright this is gonna sound ghetto but I'm going to assume the flywheel and clutch are getting replaced. There are slits near the pressure plate bolts are, stick a flathead in there, grip with one hand and with your other hand loosen the pressure plate bolts. Elbow grease is required.

Another idea, put a transmission bolt back into the block and use that as leverage for your flathead. The flathead is holding the flywheel in place where your starter makes contact while your other hand loosens the pressure plate bolts. Elbow grease is required.

JDMswagSerf

Lol don't you see what people are posting man. At least 4 different good ways wth no impact have been mentioned.
Try the hammer trick first.

here is a super easy way.
Put a trans bolt in the trans.
Put the tip of a flat heavy duty flat head on the fly wheel teeth and when the fly wheels starts to spin. The flathead will head the trans bolt and won't spin anymore.
Have someone hold the flat head firmly while you loosen everything.
Good luck!

scottcraft

I bought a $50 electric impact from harbor freight yesterday for my flywheel. That and a 5/8 12 point 1/2" drive standard socket is all I had to use to get my flywheel bolts off.

White_EG1

Yeah def getting replaced. Thanks.

Should have titled it flywheel removal for dummies lol. But blunt statements like this really help. I totally understand now

I really should have invested in one. But guess the time is now... $50 bucks sounds good too.

JDMswagSerf

Did everything I say following the bolt not make sense in where to put the bolt?
Trans bolt being one of the bolts that hold the case to the block. The flat head will hit and stop the fw from moving.

canadaek

It should be a 17mm 12 point socket Honda never used standard bolts . And 11/16 would be closer to the correct size. To the op no offence but if you can't remove the pressure plate a motor rebuild might be beyond your currant skill level .

scottcraft

Maybe it was 11/16 upon further thought. I think 5/8 was the first one I tried and it was too small.

White_EG1

No, it just stopped my mind from being stubborn and confused. After that everything made sense. I'm gonna get a flathead and report back.



Well this is my first time ever even seeing a clutch in the flesh lol, rebuilding a motor is far past my skill level though but I'm giving it a shot I wasnt even gonna dissasemble the block for this reason, just all things around it.

I never heard of or seen a SAE honda bolt.

CX-Adam

Illustration of what I said and what JDMswagserf seconded.

JDMswagSerf

This thread is over with that pic!
OP should get this off no problem now.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Don't buy a harbor freight...or any cheap electric impact. Its such a useful tool. Buy a good one (figure between $400-600). I use mine for ma'****** everything.

The heads are easy to strip. So be careful. I think you might have a hard time taking them off with the screwdriver method listed above....because you don't have an engine stand or anything securing the block.

JDMswagSerf

put the block on the floor if possible and have someone hold it. The bolts will come off.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Don't even need to spend that much. My step father has a craftsman that's lasted him, for all of $150, and I have a Hitachi that was like, $200?

B serious

iTrader: (1)

My Ingersoll has 1100LB of torque....and charges fully in about 20 mins. And weighs 6.3LB, IIRC.

I don't even need to turn on my air compressor anymore unless I'm cutting something or using my pneumatic lift. I also have an Ingersoll 780LB air impact that has probably not been turned on in like 2 years. Because my cordless one totally replaced it.

Before I got the Ingersoll cordless, I was pondering on buying a craftsman 150-200LB impact or a cheapo HF impact because I thought that all I'd use it for is lug nuts at the track.

But...again...since I use my Ingersoll for everything I work on...and it never has trouble busting loose crank pulleys, or tightening S2000 axle nuts, or breaking off M12 weld nuts, etc, the cost was 100% more justifiable than spending $100-150 on a "hobby" grade impact for JUST lugnuts....and then still needing a tool to do actual work.

**EDIT** My GF and my sister got me that gun as a gift.

My point being that a cordless impact is an extremely useful tool...and you may as well spend the extra $200 or so on a tool that takes off freaking everything.

Taking off rusted **** at the junkyard? Easy AF. As well as lots of other stubborn **** that you'll never have to post on the internet about, "I can't get this bolt loose". F*#k that bolt.

scottcraft

Down the road I'd like to get a better electric impact, but I needed one the other day and the harbor freight fit the bill. It took my flywheel bolts off and my crank pulley nut so it's done what I've needed so far.

JarvisW

Yeah, I got a Lowes brand air impact for under $50 and its done everything I've asked it. Including axle nuts. (air supplied by a 3.5hp HF compressor)(But I'd like an electric too)

That and a 12pt Craftsman metric socket set for under $20 on sale got both my man and auto flywheel (plate thing) loose.

Good luck!

Spoonfixer

My buddy has an ingersol torque gun and i turned into a peanut butter and jealous sandwich watching how easy it made things that usually make me have an aneurysm,stroke and a shart in one motion lol. Made me appreciate having the absolute right tool for the job.

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

no more horseshit, ratchet strap that thing to the table and crack those bolts off.