Clutch/Transmission Fluid
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Clutch/Transmission Fluid
Anybody know how to change transmission or clutch fluid for a 92 prelude si 5 spd? My tranny feels like it hasn't been shiftin as smooth as it should.
#2
Re: Clutch/Transmission Fluid (mikester_91)
Get 2Qts of GM Syncromesh (non synthetic as it doesn't matter).
There is a 3/8 drain bolt on the transmission right next to the front passenger's wheel.
Drain the fluid.
Put the bolt back in.
Look right above the drain bolt... and you'll see the filler hole. Unscrew that, and using a pump or insanely long funnel, put in 1.9 qts of MTL.
If your trans is acting odd... the GM stuff will work better than the Honda MTL.
There is a 3/8 drain bolt on the transmission right next to the front passenger's wheel.
Drain the fluid.
Put the bolt back in.
Look right above the drain bolt... and you'll see the filler hole. Unscrew that, and using a pump or insanely long funnel, put in 1.9 qts of MTL.
If your trans is acting odd... the GM stuff will work better than the Honda MTL.
#4
Re: Clutch/Transmission Fluid (specialedition)
Yeah... the BG stuff isn't bad... the problem is getting a hold of it.
They do have both straight MTL and an additive for MTL... I do not remember the names of the specific products, but I do know that many Honda dealers use them to solve shift quality issues with the manual trannies.
They do have both straight MTL and an additive for MTL... I do not remember the names of the specific products, but I do know that many Honda dealers use them to solve shift quality issues with the manual trannies.
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Re: Clutch/Transmission Fluid (mikester_91)
someone else recommended loosening the fill bolt first just to make sure it opens before you drain out all the fluid and cant get it back in. Get a breaker bar too, thought I was going to break my socket loosening the bolt.
#6
Re: Clutch/Transmission Fluid (gerhard)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gerhard »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is a 3/8 drain bolt on the transmission right next to the front passenger's wheel.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The correct bolts are by where the axle inserts into the tranny, not the ones next to the wheel...
The correct bolts are by where the axle inserts into the tranny, not the ones next to the wheel...
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Re: Clutch/Transmission Fluid (gerhard)
I used a 1/2 inch braker bar with attachment and installed new spoon mag plugs.
Just be careful, I broke the torque on both bolts (fill and drain) before I drained the fluid. I had to remove the air intake to get the rubber hose from the fill bolt to the engine compartment then used a funnel and filled away.
the filler bolt is a 17mm bolt the drain bolt is a 3/8 inch socket bolt
hopes this helps
Just be careful, I broke the torque on both bolts (fill and drain) before I drained the fluid. I had to remove the air intake to get the rubber hose from the fill bolt to the engine compartment then used a funnel and filled away.
the filler bolt is a 17mm bolt the drain bolt is a 3/8 inch socket bolt
hopes this helps
#9
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Re: Clutch/Transmission Fluid (specialedition)
It's easy to change the tranny fluid. I have no idea why dealerships charge so much for the service. It is as easy as changing the motor oil.
The hardest parts is filling up the tranny with the oil. Buy a plastic bendable hose and that makes the job SOOOO easy.
Good luck.
The hardest parts is filling up the tranny with the oil. Buy a plastic bendable hose and that makes the job SOOOO easy.
Good luck.
#13
Re: (mikester_91)
Absoulutely.
That's known as sheering.
Motor oil, transmission fluids, and differential fluids all suffer from sheering.
This is when the long chain molecules of a specific grade(s) of lubricant are cut by the mechanical process of the gears and moving parts moving.
It's not at all uncommon for a motor oil, for instance, to start it's life as a 30w oil and end as a high viscoity 20w oil.
MTL and gear lubes are no different.
So, if you buy a high quality MTL and use that... you'll see less of a difference.
Once again... the Syncromesh fuilds are particularly good in the Honda transmissions. I'd still stick with the GM Syncromesh (non-synthetic) as it works unbelievably well and is really easy to find (and chevy, caddillac, GMC, etc... dealers will stock it).
The B&G stuff is what Honda uses (at least in many dealers) to deal with the crappy shifting of the 4G and 5G transmissions. It REALLY works... but it's harder to get a hold of.
Both are a lot less prone to the effects of sheering.
That's known as sheering.
Motor oil, transmission fluids, and differential fluids all suffer from sheering.
This is when the long chain molecules of a specific grade(s) of lubricant are cut by the mechanical process of the gears and moving parts moving.
It's not at all uncommon for a motor oil, for instance, to start it's life as a 30w oil and end as a high viscoity 20w oil.
MTL and gear lubes are no different.
So, if you buy a high quality MTL and use that... you'll see less of a difference.
Once again... the Syncromesh fuilds are particularly good in the Honda transmissions. I'd still stick with the GM Syncromesh (non-synthetic) as it works unbelievably well and is really easy to find (and chevy, caddillac, GMC, etc... dealers will stock it).
The B&G stuff is what Honda uses (at least in many dealers) to deal with the crappy shifting of the 4G and 5G transmissions. It REALLY works... but it's harder to get a hold of.
Both are a lot less prone to the effects of sheering.
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