pjr710

i need to replace the crank seal on my y8 b/c its leaking. i guess i'm gunna have to take off all my belts and my timing belt.

any tips i should know about before i go about doing this?

i'm kind of curious about putting the correct amount of tension on the t-belt again

sql_civic

iTrader: (3)

I just pulled one yesterday on a F22. Be careful not to scratch the crank or the oil pump when doing this. I've done it in the past with dental picks but now I use a set of Craftsman picks. You may have to use a small screwdriver to pry up one side then the other. When installing the new one use a large socket or a piece of PVC to drive it in. Make sure you drive it in evenly. I coat the edges of the seal with very thin coat of moly based lube. Good luck.

pjr710

thanks ... any idea how it could be leaking?? does it just get between the seal and the pump? i never realized it was so important to get it on the right way

Evs-One

It's really common for the front crank seal to leak. I'd do the cam seal and a full t-belt job as well, including timing belt.

I have always used a small flat head screwdriver to pry out the seal, but like mention before, don't gouge the snout or the outer race.

When installing, be very careful not to let the seal spring pop out- keep it well lubed with silicon or high temp urea grease. Put a VERY thin coat on the outside to help with install also.

Use a deep 32mm socket, or if you have access, the Honda special tool(can't mess it up).

Drive it on until it is evenly flush with the oil pump.

pjr710

so should i lube the outsides and the insides of the seal then??

t-belt was replaced like 5k miles ago anyway

urbansi

just lube the entire thing before you put it in, wipe the excess outside lube off with miracle spirts to let it dry. As far as the timing belt i generally wouldnt worry about it, honda doesnt call for a t-belt replacement for 75k, i pushed my stock one on 300whp to 85k+.

sql_civic

iTrader: (3)

The inside of the seals usually come lubed from Honda. I use a moly based grease to lightly lube the outside just so it slides in. Be sure that whatever lube you use will not harm the rubber.

D16SiHatch

that's what she said

honda.lioness

Correct, all belts must come off. Depending, consider replacing all belts, the cam seal, the water pump, the tensioner and the crank seal while you are doing this job.

The cam and crank seals should be replaced about every other TB change. Though they are cheap enough that changing them every TB change is worth considering.

Removing the old seal is best done with an ordinary corkscrew from your liquor cabinet. Screw the corkscrew into the rubber, twist and maybe pry a bit with a screwdriver. Do not scratch the shaft.

When replacing, first get a washer from the hardware store that fits over the seal. Find a socket or a piece of pipe that then can be used to tap on the washer to push the seal gently into place. Then I recommend getting a plastic soda bottle and cutting off a cylinder from it. Cut the cylinder so you can unfold it into a rectangular piece with dimensions about 3 inches x 4 inches. Insert into the center of the seal. Slip the plastic cylinder (with seal on it) over the shaft until the seal is about halfway into the bore. Then pull the plastic cylinder out. Tap the seal into place until its outboard side is flush with the outer surface of the seal bore. Lube with motor oil as needed while you are doing this installation. Some folks use some Permatex Ultra Grey on the outer lip of the seal as it is being installed.

Using the sleeve helps prevent the inner lip of the seal from hanging up and getting folded over.


Follow the shop manual instructions for setting the tension: http://ww1.honda.co.uk/car/owner/workshop.html . This is easy to mess up if a person has never done it before, so ask questions if you have problems.

pjr710

i'm curious as to how it could be leaking? like is the seal like not on properly or something? like is its squished in a certain spot?

honda.lioness

--Incorrect installation. It was put in crooked; squished in one spot; etc.

--Normal wear and tear. The spring inside the seal will not hold tight forever; the rubber deforms; thermal changes cause the rubber to go hard; etc.

VizionTeggy

I have a drip coming from directly under the T-belt cover in the middle of the crank, I am wondering if it is more common for the crank seal to co or for the oil pan gasket to go in this area because it looks like it could be either one. any input would help.

quapouh

Did the job last week ... I just screwed in drywall screw into the seal ... of corz away from bore and crank (just in the middle) and pulled it with pliers ... worked like a charm

my 2c

quapouh

if its dripping from plastic (lowest point on the lower timing cover) it's the seal ... not hard to change but a lot of taking apart

rrmaron

I have the problem with my '99 DY7, oil dripping from the timing belt cover and losing about 2qts oil every 500 miles. My question is - can the front crankshaft seal be replaced without removing the timing cover - can it be done as follows:

1. remove crankshaft bolt

2. remove crankshaft pulley

and the big leap of faith,

3. at this point I will have access to the crank oil seal without removing the lower timing cover ...

rrmaron

bump - can anyone help me with the above question

chevy8823

i had to change one on my old car and i had to take it off.. you i dont know if their is another way.. its only a couple bolts for the cover

rrmaron

chevy, thanks a lot for answering the question - after removing the cover, is there then direct access to the oil pump (in which the seal is located), or do I still have to remove the timing belt and the gear that it is around?

Also does the lower timing cover come off without having to remove the upper timing cover?

chevy8823

no u can leave the belt and gear on. but i cant remember about the oil pump sorry. i probably wasnt that much help

chevy8823

i think your right about the pump the more i think about it