revn9k

Well, I did a quick search and didn't see it. Really easy task, but this how-to could be helpful for those who are at it for the first time. This is one of several times I've done this, and it took me 20min. You can expect 30min to an hr. or so if you follow directions, don't run into probs(which everyone always does), and if it's your first time This documentation was done for an ek civic hatch.

Hope this helps. Pretty much applies to all Honda/Acura window setups for the most part.
(If power window, you'd unplug all wiring from pwr windows and door locks)

1. Remove tweeter cover plastic
2. Remove screw from door arm rest tray
3. Remove screw from behind door handle(you can see it when you pull handle to open door
4. Remove window handle(this is a little tricky - see pics).
5. Remove door panel(don't be shy, yank on it, only little plastic clips holding it in snug).
6. Remove 6 bolts, then 2 bolts that are kinda hidden and holding the glass to the regulator
7. Pull glass out and set aside, pull window regulator out and replace with new one
8. Reverse install.
9. Sit back, relax, and have a drink while being glad you saved some $$ instead of taking it to a mechanic!



Tools needed list: 10mm socket/ratchet, 10mm wrench,
needlenose pliers, phillips screwdriver, flathead screwdriver:

-Remove tweeter cover 1st; just pull on it:

-Remove phillips screw in armrest on door panel, pull plastic:

-Remove phillips screw behind door handle, pull out plastic:

-The stubborn pin that holds the window handle in place:

window handle removed:

-There's prob. a better way, but i used a flathead screwdriver
to pull the little metal hook pin that holds the handle on, then
needle-nose pliers to pull it all the way out:

- after the two screws are out(door handle and arm pocket) and window handle removed
then you just pull the inner door panel off. it has 4-5 plastic clips
holding it in like the one my finger is touching here:



Shows the 6 bolts of the 8 to be removed - marked with green paper
There are 2 more bolts on the bottom of the glass that can't be seen
as they are inside the door:



my pinky is touching the 7th bolt to be removed, 8th is parallel
and on other end of glass. I recommend you hold the glass like this as you
remove the 6th bolt(last outside bolt) so that the glass won't fall and
bust:

removing last of 6 bolts:
7th bolt to remove(attached to glass track):

Yank that regulator out(slides out of big hole in door pretty easily):
This is how the glass & regulator are connected inside the door; you
can now see the two bolts on the bottom of glass - these are the 2 of
the 8 i did not have marked in 1st pic:

Optional to remove/loosen this bolt to the window track; it helps
when putting the glass back on track(one track on each side):

Common rule of thumb for mechanics - don't tighten any bolts til
you have them all a little threaded. I put everything back together, then
tighten all the bolts:



- car worked on--> 96 ek civic hatch, 97k original miles d16y7, lowered
on skunk 2 coilovers, hx wheels, 2000 front end conversion, fog lights,
side markers:

erikwithak

good write up helped me out ALOT thanks

bg1789

Thanks for the post - it was a big help! I used this to fix the driver's side power window on my 2000 Odyssey - a first time fix for me and this post was close enough to get me through the process. A few differences of note for anyone else who might be interested:
1. I didn't have to take off anything around the mirror.
2. I removed a screw from the inside door handle, 1 screw from the master power windows controls (each covered by a small cap that I popped off). I removed the inside door handle assembly and the power window assembly (which includes disconnecting them of course). I removed the screws around the speaker (I didn't have to remove the speaker from the panel - just make sure you disconnect it before yanking on the panel too hard).
3. After removing the panel, I had to peel back a white plastic cover that was almost like a tarp. I had to remove about 3 more screws to peel this back enough.
4. I removed 7 bolts to remove the regulator and motor plus 2 bolts that were on the bottom of the window. The 7 bolts were in roughly the same configuration as the ones shown here (2 low, 2 high, and 3 toward the front bottom of the door). The two window bolts were accessible through holes in the door panel, so you have to lower or raise the window to the right position in order to align them with the holes and reach them.
5. To lift the glass out I had to rotate it a little while it was still on the track, so the larger side (back side) came out at an angle first and the smaller side (front side) came out second.

Hope this helps anyone else who finds this post while fixing an Odyssey. Thanks for your help and pics revn9k!

j-r_rida

Thx for help

e1ght4vii

i just did this on my gfs civic and when the window rolls up almost all the way it get off track what am i doing wrong? how do i know if the window is level or maybe do the tracks needs to b lubed?

92CivicHatchH23

whats up? so i have a 92 civic dx hatch and my driver manual window is really pissin me off. i bought a oem regulator and lubed the tracks very good lubed the bottom of the regulator just in case, and every time i roll the window up or down the front of the window by the mirror goes last and keeps throwing it of track if i dont help it. i was thinking about bending the track bracket but i thought i should ask first maybe someone can help. hopefully someone can help thank u.

wek'lude

Exact same issue I'm having, anybody find a cure yet?

kneelohowie

Had the same problem

There is a simple adjustment needs to be made so the window goes into place easily. The bolt holding the regulator closest to the back end of the door is through a slotted hole.

Loosen the bolt and slide the bolt part of the way towards the bottom of slot while holding the window, retighten and test by winding up window.

If still not right then repeat process until the window slides feely into the correct position.

On my daughters 92 Civic the bolt had to be right at the bottom of the slot.

coolindagame304

Great write up I'm going to use this when I work on my teg but idk I have the same issue my window is power and if just falls down but it's on track

Stunna MIKE

cant visualize what you are talkign about about.. any pics ?

kneelohowie

Sorry, no photos.

Since sold the car.

kneelohowie

Hey, got a photo showing the location of the bolt but cant work out how to post it here. Email me on lorney@xtra.co.nz and I'll send it to you.

bigpunn421

can i replace a manual window regulator in a civic eg without removing the glass?

dvdomingo

How about an automatic regulator for an Odyssey passenger window. How do you replace it.?

skadoner

Maybe you could help me out,I godda change my regulator but I've also godda change the pulley system, I'm but sure what its called. Its where all the wires that make the window go up and down go into. Its the little silver box that the window handle sticks onto. Could you help me out on how to change that?

BearTransport

Great post! I used this months ago to guide me through my repair. Very little is different on a 2000 Honda Civic DX.

I'd like to post a howto for a 2000 Honda Civic DX (Value Package) manual window regulator replacement. Apparently I need to wait 15 days and post 5 times to upgrade my account before I can upload photos. Post 1 of 5.

stat3ofm1nd

i need for power windows on a 98 civic 4 door dyi

Marcoscrdo

Does this work on a 96 civic dx? My manual passenger side regulator thing is really hard to turn at midway rising the window back up. Does this mean i need to replace the regulator or take out Greece lube up then reinstall?

LadyCamouflage

If you're like me, you learn by taking things apart and learning how it all goes together. So take it out and look at it. This is coming from the chick with her Civic's door torn apart in her garage at the moment. Mine is power, so yours is a little more simple.
Taking it out is easier than it looks. Trust me. Just can't be afraid to yank the paneling off. It does come after awhile. I had to remove some screws that were hidden under the speaker horn and it came right off.
At least you know it's the regulator and not a regulator OR the motor. So yeah, Dude. Take that sucker out and see what works. Won't know until you try.

Also I learned that taking the track bolts out is a BIG help when putting the window back in line with the guides so it rises and falls in line. It's a lot easier to put the glass back in the rubber slits on the inside of the door that way and then bolt the track back down around it. If you do that, you shouldn't have an issue with re-aligning the window.

los94

great info i just bot my car and the window is taped but i shud be getting the two missing window bolts tomorow and get it all ready!

KPDSM

I have been using this as a guide for my power window in my 96 sedan. I took everything apart, and couldnt determine whether it was the regulator or the motor, so I grabbed both off amazon. Hopefully when it comes ill be able to figure out how to get it baxk bolted up. When it comes ill return with update

Hooonigan

I also have a 1996 EK hatch and i unbolted the window regulator, everything, window is out. The new ones that came are a little different they have cables but it's not automatic and i have to clue how this one lines up.

mordokwan

Wow, great post! This helped me tremendously, so thank you!

I have an older '95 VX, so I wanted to add the following so that it may help others:

I was having issues with the window seemingly going off track and being extremely difficult to roll up unless I used one hand to pull up on the glass while rolling it up. I felt like the regulator was still working, but something else was wrong, so this tutorial was golden! But I wanted to include what I found for everyone to possibly save time to the parts store & spending money unnecessarily.

Once you get the door panel/card off, and the plastic covering removed from the door, roll the window up & down while looking at the bolts holding the window regulator in place, specifically where the window handle attaches. I noticed that they were moving slightly. Therefore I took out the two bolts holding the window on its track and removed the window completely. I then loosened all the bolts holding the regulator in place, and lubricated it completely. I then positioned the regulator exactly as it should be, where the bolts sat at the bottom center of the hole they sat in, and tightened down the bolts. I put the window back in, with the front of the window it its track while holding the back of the window against its track, I lowered the glass by hand until it was even with the regulator track. While continuing to hold the window flush with the rear track while still in the front track, I slid the regulator track all the way back toward the door jam, and put the bolts in and tightened them down. And bingo, the window worked perfectly! Saved my about $30 per window on buying new regulators, or wasting time & money on going to the junkyard.

You will have to take off the small triangular cover for the side view mirror (manual adjustment) to get the window out.

Lastly, when you put the door handle back on, if you start the pin without pushing all the way in to place, slide the handle on, you can use a flat head screwdriver to simply push it the rest of the way on, saving you time & a little frustration. A little quirky note, when the window is down, the handle always hit my knee, so when I put it back on, I positioned it level and toward the front of the car, so when the window is down, it is out of knees way.

Spaz253

do u still have a pic of the bolt location, having a problem with my sons window