lilskydiver

Hi everyone, I'm new here and I need HELP!!! PLEASE!!!

I have a 1999 Honda Accord LX, 4 speed manual transmission w/ approx 64,325 miles on it... I am the original owner and my car has never been in an accident nor has it had any major repairs/damage/etc...

2 days ago my 'Check Engine Light' came on... AutoZone ran a test and it came up w/ the code: PO135

Definition:
Sensor 1 heater system malfunction

Probable cause:
1. Open or short circuit condition
2. Poor Electrical Connection
3. Faulty A/F sensor

The clerk there said I need an O2 Sensor... when he looked it up on his pc he had the option of choosing the sensor which is BEFORE or AFTER the catalytic converter and he told me it was the one AFTER. Yet when I asked him how does he know this, he couldn't tell me!

I am currently stuck in Texas and I need to drive this weekend approx 1,300 miles to go back home to CA! So my question is, should I get a new O2 sensor BEFORE I drive home? Do I need the sensor before or after the converter? Is it safe to drive 1,300 miles before getting it fixed? I don't want there to be a problem and me get stuck on the road in the middle of nowhere by myself and not be able to go back to the SAME shop that did the repair. But I also don't want to break down on the road if I needed it fixed.

And my last question is: Can I fix/change this easily by myself? I am handy and I'm good at reading/following directions and diagrams... but I'm FAR from being a mechanic/technician!!! If possible, I would prefer to do it myself b/c I am broke and unemployed. Plus, I'm not from around here and do not have a local repair shop that I know of or trust.

Thanks for taking the time to read this... and thanks in advance for your help!!!

HONDAPARTSMANMIKE

repace the primary o2 sensor with a oem honda one theare the best...

HONDAPARTSMANMIKE

you should change it before making that drive because it could cause damage to the cat converter. if you choose to get it from autozone they should be able to lend you the tools to do it,also make sure if you get it from autozone its a direct fit no splicing required. good luck

lilskydiver

Hi Mike,
Is the primary O2 sensor the one after the converter or before it? Do I have more than one of them? And can I change it myself or should I go to a repair shop and get it done?

Thank you!

HONDAPARTSMANMIKE

it is the one before the cat its on the manifold.you have 2 of them one in the manifol(primary) and one in the cat(secondary). what you will need is an o2 sensor socket or a 7/8 wrench requires the manifold heat shield to be off in order to use the 7/8 wrench. you can do it yourself as long as you get the proper tools. i believe autozone will loan you the tool even if you dont get the sensor from them but im not sure. i know by me they will

lilskydiver

Thank you for your response... for some reason the guy at AutoZone told me it was the SECONDARY o2 sensor after the cat... so you're sure it's the Primary?

Is this easy to do for someone who's never really worked on a car? I will have to find info online (i'm assuming I can???) on where to find the manifold, heat shield, etc... in my engine. Unfortunately, my little '99 Owner's Manual doesn't cover that! haha!

Thanks again,

Deanna

AuroraHonda

Well if the Code came up Code PO135 that is your Primary O2 Sensor Heater Malfunction. Primary Is the 1st one The One on the Exhaust Manifold And the 2nd is after the CAT. So the one you want to replace is your Primary.
(1st Sensor)

donaldadams

http://www.superhonda.com/forum/f94/...sensor-230863/

there is a write up i found after a quick google.... it doesnt seem 2 hard even for someone who doesnt really wrk on their car

donaldadams

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2463

another link i found... pertaining to 6thgen accords

lilskydiver

Many thanks for the response!

I wanted to double check w/ you guys/gals who know about Honda's b/c as I said, the AutoZone guy did not know EXACTLY which one it was (and apparently he told me the wrong one!).

Everyone's help is very much appreciated!!!

lilskydiver

Thanks so much for your time and help! I guess I should have searched in this own message board, huh? Duh!

I will carefully read/review this info... so I'm assuming working on a Civic will be the same as an Accord? (sorry if this is a dumb question, but I HAD to ask! ughhh... I know, I'm a lame-o!!!)

lilskydiver

Sorry for the late reply, for some reason I am slow to get private msgs and responds to my thread. (???) At any rate, thank you!!! I will look into this site!

lilskydiver

Hi again... any recommendations on the brand of Primary O2 Sensory I should purchase? I don't have time to buy it online, therefore need to get it at a parts store or at the Honda dealer.

Is it ok to purchase a BOSCH O2 Sensor?
(part #: 13075)
10.3 inches
O.E. Type
Retail: $89.99

Or should I go get an official Honda part? I don't have a lot of money and I know Honda parts are pricey... I just want to do this right... and I'm stressing b/c it's just me, myself and I right now (oh, and my dad on the telephone from CA telling me how to torque the wrench the right way! UGH!)

ALSO - I've been reading that I need to use a dollop antiseize compound... any particular brand or type I should use? How much of it do I use? Just smear it around the entire sensor, including the tip??? Or just the sides?

Thanks in advance for your help!!!!!

HONDAPARTSMANMIKE

i would rec a denso if going after market otherwise get it from honda... it will last alot longer for you...

lilskydiver

Thanks for getting back to me... well, I just called Honda and the dealer quoted me $179.60 for the O2 Sensor. WOW! A lot of money!!!

Autozone did have a Denso which was actually $25-30 dollars CHEAPER than the Bosch (if I remember correctly). Would this be correct? So I guess I should return the Bosch and get a Denso...

lilskydiver

Ok, I was mistaken the Denso that was cheaper was the kind you have to splice yourself and I don't want that!

So I called for the Denso and AutoZone told me that for a Honda 99 Accord it has TWO different options for o2 sensors and it depends on the ENGINE CODE (?) that is supposedly written on my engine block.

The 2 codes are: F23A1 or F23A4 and that will determine which Denso o2 sensor I'm supposed to purchase. UGHHHH!!!!

How do I find out where this code is located???

tech8

1. Before you do anything else, you may want to reset the ECU first and see if it comes back after several short trips. Have Autozone clear the code with their scanner or disconnect the negative (ground) battery cable for a few minutes. If you disconnect the negative battery cable, ensure the connection is tight after you reconnect.

2. The engine code is at several locations under the hood. I believe one location is at the box I marked on the attached picture.

Additionally, if the valve cover says ULEV, you have a F23A4 engine. The F23A4 engine uses a wide band air/fuel ratio sensor, which is much more expensive than the narrow band oxygen sensor on the F23A1. But check the engine code to double check.

Usually, the trouble code would be P1167 if it was the air/fuel ratio sensor versus the P0135 for the oxygen sensor. However, I am not sure whether your year's model differentiated the code.

The F23A1 engine is non-ULEV, which uses the Bosch oxygen sensor you currently bought. Denso is the OEM sensor and is recommended; however, if you are in a jam, use what works to get you home. (Remember, resetting the ECU may get you home, without replacing the sensor until you get home.)

Good luck.

jweller

the code 0135 is for the primary O2 sensor heater. O2 sensors work best in a relatively narrow temperature range. The heater helps the O2 sensor get up to normal operating temperature quickly, to help reduce cold start emissions. You will do absolutely no damage what so ever to the car, or the cat converter, by driving it with that code. I'm not saying don't fix it, but if you need to drive it home, don't worry about it.

the primary O2 sensor is always the one closest to the engine. not sure why the parts counter guy told you otherwise, but he is wrong. I would just say that the free advice you get from the parts counter is usually worth what you paid for it.

Hondas, especially the ULEV models, are kinda funny about O2 sensors. I would recommend spending the extra cash and buying a genuine Honda part.

I would also recommend using anti-seize compound when you install it. Brand is unimportant, but I like to buy the kind that comes in a stick, like lip balm, instead of the tube, since it seems to make less of mess. Either way is fine. what you want to do is put some on the threads of the sensor. DO NOT get it on the sensor itself. If you do, wipe it off with a rag. When you get the sensor, check it as it may already have compound on it. I just replaced 2 of the sensors on my truck this weekend and they came with anti-seize already applied on them.

easiest way to clear the code once you have made a repair is to pull the fuse in the passenger side fuse box labeled clock/backup.

rickbaales

Hello, new here. I am getting the P0135 error CEL code in my honda accord 2000 se. It idles rough. I've read that I need to replace it. I have a few questions:

1) Will it cause permanent damage if I keep driving? It is sunday, so the honda dealer is closed. Oreilly and Autozone only have the Bosch brand. Is Bosch okay?

2) Is it the primary or secondary (under the car) o2 sensor that I have to replace.

3) Do I need to reset the computer after install (unplugging the battery) or do I need to do it through a computer?

asianguy

my does the same

tpot90

4 Speed manual?

xduggy

I had the same problem

MikeThGreaseMan

Same problem here. Replaced both primary and secondary O2 sensors. Check Engine light still stays on. Still get PO135 code. Disconnected cables from battery for a few hours to reset light. Light was off when I restarted, and came back on about 5 seconds later. Engine idles rough as well. Any ideas as to how to fix this problem? 2002 Honda Accord SE 4 cyl, VTec Automatic. Fuses are good.

Flagmichael

Heated O2 sensor codes are rarely the result of a bad sensor heater - they are usually due to the control circuit being bad. Testing for proper heater voltage is important before springing for a replacement sensor (although replacing a 12 year old O2 sensor is not such a bad thing). In the meantime, just drive it. The heater warms the sensor up more quickly to minimize emissions and maximize fuel economy on cold starts. Once the car is warm it makes no difference at all.

bobbyg313

Just bought a 1999 accord coupe auto 4cyl and has the same p0135 code

primary sensor had been replaced before

(easy way to check for bad O2 is to swap the primary and secondary O2 check for different code)

a little diagnosis goes a long way O2 heater circuit is very simple 12 volts comes into the O2 black w/ yellow strip wire @ O2 plug via fused circuit key on and ground comes in black w/ white stripe ecu controls this ground circuit

more than likely your problem will be in the wiring in the fused circuit

if you don't know how to use a DVM (digital volt meter) then learn or take your vehicle to a good shop it will be well worth it in the end. other wise you will have a few good spare parts and a headache to show for your work.

my problem is inside the ecu took it apart and has a black burned spot on the circuit board (ECU is located at very front of center console)

maybe this information will help someone else