jetncomptech

I read the moderators troubleshooting steps for the main relay, and starting issues and ran through those. I also checked the green wire on the new ignition module with the key on & it has the same power as does the battery, that we cleaned the terminals on & gave it a complete charge.

We had a very weak spark from the distributor & replaced it was white not blue color,that cannot be measured with a DVM. POWER FROM THE NEW COIL is at least 12 volts.

I have replaced , distributor the ign. module, cap & rotor, coil also the plugs , checked all fuses and the ecu plugs/connectors & grounds shown in the moderators steps.I did not run the DVM tests on the ECU, but I'm getting the proper sequence of check engine light coming on then going off with the fuel pump 2 seconds noise/running & the 1 click just after from the main relay which we tried a new one & it had zero effect.

The TDC & CYLINDER POSITION SENSOR on a 2.7 V6 are under the timing belt sprocket upper forward and the OBD2 reaader (INNOVA 3100) gave me codes for those sensors. WE did replace The TDC & CYLINDER POSITION SENSORS and NO DIRECTIONS ON INSTALLING LEFT OR RIGHT CAME WITH THOSE SENSORS. We ALSO had to set all three timing marks again.

I also found a bad temp sensor & replaced it.

The only reason I posted was after doing most of the above & still not getting it STARTED but still won't accel without dying . This 96 Accord is being fixed up for my son & I of course appreciate all the help and suggestions. .
It cranks very well now that we replaced so much. It just doesn't want to run very long & now the TDC & CYP sensor codes p1361 & p1381 say intermittent which before they had a different code for both.

LIKE I SAID NOW IT STARTED , but won't run more than a minute or so before the CEL comes on and it dies. PLEASE HELP & THANKS

Spaceballsthelunchbox

I had a similar issue with my 96 accord 4 cyl.
I replaced the distributor and the problem continued.
I took the pins out of the plug ( the one in the harness ) and closed the connectors a bit more tightly with a pair of pliers. You have to be careful not to close the pins all the way so they still make a connection. That was it, the CYP and Tdc codes finally stopped popping. For ***** and giggles, I reinstalled the old distributor and it worked perfectly, I am still using that one.

jetncomptech

Thanks Maxbore, I'll have to try that. I'm not getting fire or enough fire/spark from the distributor again today, so it's back to not starting again. I've swapped the CYP & TDC sensors since they didn't have install instructions and then swapped them back after that didn't work.

Course I tried 2 distributors and it started on the 2nd one but soon as i DROVE down the road it started missing and died , several times before I could back it up. Soon as I gave it any gas it dies or let it set a minute or so when it does start it dies.

Right now though it's not starting again. So I bought a new negative cable and removed the rusted bracket it attached to and installed the new battery to block ground 1st then the rusty one that also holds two connectors , and still no start.

overboostin

only thing left is the ecu to be bad, you have swap every part needed to make it run.

jetncomptech

Hey thanks OVERBOOSTIN , I finally got combustion today since it had died after replacing the distributor and now it got codes p1381 & p0336 for intermittent CYP and wrong voltage on crankshaft sensor.
so since the crankshaft sensor hasn't been replaced I'm ordering one now.

overboostin

have u ohm out the crank yet , it realy sounds like the ecu , have u jumped the car lately? the spike could have damaged it . i had this happen to me befor and replace every thing and the disrtiubtor keep going out so i would replace it and it would run again but then go out ,, swap ecu and never had aproblem again

jetncomptech

Hey Overboostin No but thanks cause I already thought the same thing , but the Check engine light does what's supposed to do according to all forumns and the honda repair manual if the CEL does not stay on then it's not the ECU? unless yours did the same thing ?

overboostin

yes it did the same every time i changed somthing a new code came up , and so on , once i swaped ecu i put all the old sensors back and it still ran . so i had some extra sensors then .

gianinline

I didn't read all the posts, but i just wanted to say that you should check your wiring harness too, the one from the sensors leading to the firewall (eventually ECU). I had a problem with crank sensor before, replaced it... didn't work, then i changed the harness, and CEL was gone.

jetncomptech

thanks I have been checked all the multi connectors from the harness and looking over the harness as I go

phootbag

A graphing multimeter is what I use in situations like this. Being able to observe the wave form as the car dies can tell you if the problem is with the sensor or the wiring.

Perform tests at the sensor itself and then at the ECU and compare.

jetncomptech

I changed the coil again and then we had the injector circuit tester hooked up and noted intermittent lites on them while cranking , my starter went out most likely from all the cranking so now it will be new as well.

I replaced the crank sensor too. I had already stated I checked all the grounds noted in troubleshooting and now also tried another ECU . still no start

Benrsmith

Hey I have the same codes (1361 and 1381) for my 1996 Honda accord V6 and the information I got said that the TDC and CYP were in the distributor, can anyone post pics to show the actual location. I'm not much of a mechanic, and I've already replaced the distributor (apparently NOT the problem). Please Help!!!