curvy95honda

I have a 1995 Honda Civic - D16z6 stock EX 2dr coupe auto trans.

Here's what’s happening - Most days, it starts just fine but almost like clockwork, after a rain the car seems to not want to start. Sometimes if I wash the car this happens too so, I am almost certain that moisture is the problem however there are a lot of sensors to replace to find the answer.

Here is what i see when it happens exactly. Jump in the car, turn ignition to the ON pos. Dash lights light up and turn the key to start. Nothing!!! just turns and turns and turns over but no start. sometimes 10 seconds later, sometimes 10 minutes later an audible click, some whirling sound (i assume is my fuel pump) and the whirly sound stops, check engine light goes out, car starts just fine. I used to be able to just jump in turn the key and vroom but since this started happening, the car just isn't as reliable.

Although I notice it on cold and rainy days, it does happen at other times. Certainly not as much since i don't notice as much but it does.

There are also a lot of weird symptoms that are happening with the car, not sure if they are relevant but all started happening when I noticed this.

1. Cruise control will no longer set. (the button light comes on however the dash indicator will not and it will not set at speed)
2. Reduced power. It almost seems like the car just isn’t getting enough fuel and is bogging. I notice this a lot when turning corners. Although my car has the momentum, it rattles and sounds like its bogged down in too high of a gear (but it's an automatic).
3. Power loss is mostly at low range. If i drive the city in 3rd gear, I seem to have the power I am expecting however 4th gear seems always bogged down.
4. Rattling at low RPM's. This car never rattled before but it sounds just like a manual trans when you have it in too high of a gear. This only happens at low RPM's. As soon as i get past 3k R's the noise goes away.
5. Did not pass smog last time. I had to get the Cat replaced before it would pass about a month ago.
6. A pungent smell in the cabin. Almost seems like exhaust fumes but a sweet smell rather than the typical harsh burnt fuel. Almost seems like a misfire or gas is not getting burned.
7. Smoking - the car smokes now where i don't "think" it did before. I had someone follow me home about two weeks ago and they said that it smokes a lot off the start and it is white to light grey. He didn't describe it as a cloud but just smoking.
8. Codes at high RPM's - if I try and pass someone while in the fast lane, it almost always cuts out and CEL comes on, thereafter restricing the RPM's to 3000. After the CEL if I step on the gas at all it just shudders until I get below 3000 RPM's. It apperantly doesnt like to be pushed too hard anymore.

I am sure not all of these are to do with my problem but maybe one of them can help lead us in the right direction.

Recent fixes
The cat was replaced less than a month ago.
Replaced the O2 sensor last time I smogged it because it wouldn't pass that time either 2 years ago.
New water pump, timing belt, alt belt, AC belt, PS belt, PS pump, crankshaft seal and camshaft seal.

Codes
I pulled the flash codes and this is why I am posting this looking for insight. I got code 11, 51 and 11 in sequence. When I looked at the standard Honda codes, those aren’t even listed. So, maybe I’m wrong and those aren’t together, then it would be 10, 1, 50, 1, 10 and 1. 50 is not listed but 1 and 10 are.

Here’s what I see exactly when retrieving the codes - The SRS light flashes and NOT the check engine light on my car when retrieving the codes. Car is off, keys are out of the ignition. Put the pin jumper in the connector under dash. get into driver’s seat and turn key until lights come on dash. After about 10 seconds the SRS light will start flashing. Long, pause, short, pause, pause, long, pause, long, pause, long, pause, long, pause, long, pause, pause, long, pause short, pause, pause, wash, rinse, repeat.
Long = a long light and short = a short light. pause is the delay in-between sometimes double. I know the pauses are doubled sometimes because I’ve counted the seconds. 2 alligator is all I can get out of a pause and 4 alligator out of a pause, pause.

At this point I am at a complete loss because the next few sensors that "I THINK" are the problem are anywhere from $250 up to $750 each. $250 for a new IAT sensor, $350 for the main relay and a whopping $750 for the ECM.
Ultimately "I THINK" this is a fuel problem but again, I am at a loss and about to go to the stealership for help. But I think we all know what will happen when I do that.

I have the car here in front of me and can take video of anything and post if neccessary just let me know.

Thanks in advance and sorry for the lengthy post but the devils in the detail, right?

virgineg6

alot to read lol the car should make your whirley sound every time you turn the key to II if it doesnt either your relay isnt clicking over or the fuel pump is going bad. try posting a video of all of this happening seems to be to much for me anyways lol

curvy95honda

Well, it's not raining in SoCal ATM however, I will try and wash the car to coerce the problem manually. and post the results ASAP.

Former User

1) Resolder the main relay. Click here.

2) The head gasket may be blown. Compression test the cylinders and do a leak down test.

3) Do an ignition system tune up.

4) You are reading SRS trouble codes for the airbag system. When you jump the service connector, does the CEL remain on steady?

curvy95honda

Thanks Ron!

1. I was in serious worry about that relay. I've seen the tutorial on how to resolder that bad boy and was actually considering it for the cost efficiency. However if it were faulty, wouldn't the codes show it?

2. I had someone do a comp test not too long ago and they said it was normal but that one cylinder was just a bit lower than the others and they assured me it was fine. Should i fire that guy?

3. I've replaced the wires, cap, rotor and plugs however i have the coil and havent yet put it in. i will and update.

4. You are correct about the CEL. It remains lit while the SRS light flashes. Am i jumping the wrong connector? There is another under the dash however it is a three pin and im not all too sure of the correct config if thats the case.

Former User

curvy95honda

Alright here is what I have so far.....

The plugs look as though they have a white powdery substance on them...
These images are sequential, cyl. 1 on top through cyl 4 at the bottom.









Did the leak-down test here are the results...

Cyl 1 - 40% loss
Cyl 2 - 60% loss
Cyl 3 - 40% loss
Cyl 4 - 40% loss

Installed the new coil, no difference.

Wrench that did the comp test is out so, I have to go buy a new meter tomorrow. Will post the results ASAP.

During the leak-down test, I could hear air running into the crankcase only and on all 4 cylinders. Nothing from the radiator, intake, exaust or PCV. Although when I took the hose off the PCV line to the intake, I could see a considerable amount of crud in there. I cleaned out what I could and checked the PCV to see if it worked and it did. Clicked with the engine idling and my thumb on one side of the valve.

Think this'l help or should i shoot for the comp numbers too?