DaMonkeyManJD

I have all these coming up...

P0301- Cylinder 1 misfiring
P0302- cylinder 2 misfiring
P0303- cylinder 3 misfiring
P0300- random / multiple misfire detected.
P1399- Manufactures control Ignition system OR Misfire

My timing belt snapped last week i changed the water pump and timing, and
I changed out 02 sensor, Dist. Cap, Wires, Plugs, Ignition Rotor, and Temp Sensor. I readjusted the timing and ran a pressure test in plugs (all is fine w/ pressure) and im still getting all those codes..

Ive talked to a few mechanics and they have said it needs a Valve adjustment... Cause at first it was only misfiring in Cylinder 1. then all of a sudden it started misfiring in all 4 and now its over heating. 6 months ago i had a new head gasket put in.

I need help..

DaMonkeyManJD

I guess i better tell u my car is a Honda Civic LX 1998

lazlong

Sounds like valve adjustment is good advice.

DaMonkeyManJD

Sounds like good advice? hmm Does anyone else have any input for me?

DaMonkeyManJD

Any Idea how much a Valve Adjustment would Cost me?

lazlong

OK smarty. It is good advice although, it may not solve the problem. It could very well a bad headgasket with blowing the timing and all. Or it could be a bent valve, etc. Basically what I'm saying is there are a lot of causes of misfires, you just have to go thru them until you find the cause. Valve adjustment and looking for a blown headgasket would be likely places to start.

DaMonkeyManJD

sorry for being a smart ***, not meant to be mean or anything i apologize...i just replaced the head gasket 6 months ago.. and while they were in there they didnt redo my timing or my water pump which is what i also changed last week.

DaMonkeyManJD

So i DId a little more Research and found that the p1399 code is the Ignition Module in the Distributor, but someone else is also telling me that its the Coil.. Who do i BELIEVE? any suggestions?

benimcan

Hi there, I have the exact same problem with exactly the same model 98 Honda civic. I dont know anything about cars and my car is not in great shape. I did have a specific question though. The misfirings started after I got my smogcheck. The guy doing the test said that my timing belt was off a few degrees and my car would not pass the test because of it. He said he could adjust the degrees to give car more power for $30. So I said ok and he did it. After 2 days my car started misfiring while starting up. I would get the shaking and it comes close to not starting. I found out the codes today and it was the same as original post plus the 4th cylinder. My question is could this have been caused specifically by the mechanic changing the degree of the timing belt?

Former User

1) Check the mechanical timing



2) How old are the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and fuel filter

3) Have the coil and ICM tested

madnad

Try burping your coolant system. You had waterpump work done and may have introduced air in the system.

redyute

iTrader: (2)

Yep p1399 is a bad coil, do you have a known good distributor you can switch out?

slightly_hackish

They probably already did...3 years ago when this thread was relevent.

madnad

True. I did realize that I am posting after long time and the prob may not be relevant anymore. However, I was hoping to help anyone else who might drop by with similar issues. I had come across this while reading up for my own sake.
The irony is that burping coolant (I had to replace my burst hose) did not help me and I continue to forge ahead looking for a solution.

slightly_hackish

As redyute said, P1399 is a bad coil, have you tried changing it yet?

madnad

Changed out the coil without much change.
However, I do notice that the misfire with CEL flashing comes on when going uphill or at low speed, accompanied by intermittent belt squeal. More likely if I have the AC on - so only under load. Under the hood, when gently revving up (guessing around 2K rpm) with AC engaged, I notice that the AC clutch will momentarily stop and re-engage, and the squeal will come one. Higher rpm will make that go away. Spraying the belt with water made the squeal worse. So it may be a loss of tension in one of the belts - there are three besides the timing belt and I cannot tell which one. I sprayed some belt dressing (I know a big no no - I found out later) with some improvement.
So far I have changed out the spark plugs (NGK), wires, distributor cap and rotors and the ignition coil. Also replaced the fuel filter, cleaned out the EGR passages, checked the injectors all are firing, the compression pressures were uniform in all 4.

Next on agenda would be
1) Find the tensioner pulley - change it or tighten it if possible.
2) Change out the belts and pulley along with water pump - sound slightly daunting to me but I might take on that task.

Does that sound like a plan?
Thanks in advance.

madnad

Updates since my last post:
1. Replaced the idler pulley. Old one seemed to have grinding noise. However, no real improvement noticed.
2. Did not replaced any belts cos at the time of changing idler pulley, I checked them and they looked fairly new (History unknown as I bought this six months ago). The tension seems to be okay and no apparent wear noticed.
3. cleaned out the distributor and replaced the O-ring gasket (had some oil on the outside) - little better idling but the engine hesitating on load and lower revs continue to occur with a blinking CEL (same codes on Torque 1399, 0300, 0301, 0302, 0303, 0304).

Next on agenda:
a. replace transmission fluid - haven't got a chance to look at it recently. About six months ago, when I took it down to Midas (please don't rag) they noticed hardly any coolant, engine oil or transmission fluid (poorly maintained). Replaced those but I am not sure they used the OEM tranny fluid, hence that is on my agenda.
b. Do a valve adjustment - seems like the last man standing to me in terms of usual suspect and I hope to fix this clunker to stay good for a while after that.
Don't know if anyone is going to read this but I hope whoever stumbles on this post will learn from my adventures.

tony_2018

Have you diagnose the distributor, or is there a reason why you're leaving that out of the equation?

madnad

The distributor is also on the list. I will be swapping that out as well with a brand new one.

skyliner34life

sounds like timing, if it is a valve adjustment that is a pretty easy DIY

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

STOP

This is a ******* 3 year old thread that was dragged out of death. Let it die again.

To the person who necro'd this thread: Don't do that. Ever. There's no reason to do it. Not only are you dredging up a thread that has been long dead, you're also stealing someone else's thread. When you do that, we can't refer to the original post for information - we have to go digging through and find where you decided to re-start the thread. If you're having problems, read the FAQ sticky, read the rules sticky, and if your question still isn't answered, then create your own thread. Never threadjack, and sure as hell never bump a 3 year old, dead thread.