curtie94

Ok I have a 1991 Honda Accord and I am doing calipers and pads because my calipers are seized. I have seen many people say you need to press out the bearing on these cars. Is there an easier way I have seem the eric the car guy video is that the best way? Does it damage the bearing? Any help will be apreciated. I am doing this at school next week.

If we have to we want to resurface the rotors.

If I have to remove the knuckle should I also do CV Shafts, they have been clicking for a while.

Please Help Me

shortbusondubs

I pulled whole assembly. And it was a pain in my ***. Take it and have the rotors turned at a midas with an on car brake lathe.

curtie94

how muck do they usually charge for that?

bdmlilburn

good question. but im betting its cheaper then converting to a rotor over hub setup(best option so you dont have to worry about this ever again) or paying someone else to press off the hubs/bearings replace the rotors and press the hubs and bearings back on.

of course you can do this yourself with the eric the car guy method. honestly i dont like the idea of cutting near my hubs anywhere but maybe thats just met. removing the hubs with a slide hammer has also been known to cause damage to the bearings if not done correctly so research before you start tackling something and end up with another huge problem and your car more apart then before

know anyone that works at a shop maybe?

if the cv joints are clicking then go ahead and replace the entire driveshaft. if it does it on the left then replace the left. the right then the right. if it clicks on both sides then you need to replace both. better off buying a new driveshaft also. no point in trying to rebuild the old cv joints with new parts/grease/etc. you will need a 36mm socket and a very strong breaker bar and extension to remove the axle nuts.-love my 40" 3/4" breaker bar..

the greatest advise i could give is to go with a rotor over hub setup. uses the same caliper and everything. the hubs/bearings-already pressed together are around 300 shipped from tas auto and boy is it nice to take the wheel off and be able to slide the rotor right off.

whichever way you go i see your doing it yourself. make sure when reinstalling the hub/bearing to tighten it like a wheel is tightened. in a cross pattern. if it does not go in/is not seated straight into the knuckle no good

curtie94

one more question would be should i have them resurfaced before or after i replace calipers and pads?

bdmlilburn

at the same time is best so the brake pad will make its own imprint on the new rotor instead of having the old rotor dig into the pad or the old pads messing up your new rotor.

maybe remove the knuckle and take it up there so they can resurface it? i would call and check

curtie94

I wanted to save myself some money if I could I wanted to change the calipers and pads myself and have the rotors turned. At school we have the bench lathe but not the on car.

bdmlilburn

calipers and pads are easy. just make sure you bleed the calipers correctly afterwards.

to replace rotor here is what i did in the past to save money
-remove wheel and axle nut
-remove caliper
-pop knuckle out of lower balljoint
-remove axle(damper fork will most likely get in the way. i usually remove this also) from hub and suspend it with some string. this way you dont gotta worry about tranny fluid leaking and needing replacing
-there are four bolts on the back of the knuckle that hold the hub/bearing to the knuckle. you can either remove the bolts and replace them with longer ones and hammer in a cross pattern to press the hub out or attach a large slide hammer to the front of the hub and knock it out that way-this can damage the bearing if it is pulled out at an angle. also the bearing can remain in the knuckle with the hub removed. if the hub and bearing seperate they will need to be pressed back together before reassembly. be careful
-now you can replace the rotor with the hub/bearing off. remove the hub to rotor bolts and remove the rotor.
-the hub/bearing/rotor can be reinstalled using a press or by correctly using a criss cross tightening pattern on the four bolts that connect it to the knuckle(you may need longer bolts to get it started-not sure on this ). just tighten em a 90-180 degrees at a time in a criss cross pattern. however much you feel safer doing. just keep the turns consistent and it will go in straight

hope some of that helps. maybe mix some of it with eric car guy video

tommi

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5xIUAMl-oRQ

curtie94

I went down to midas and they test drove and looked at the braked for free. He told me not to worry about the rotors and just change the calipers and pads.