Gsrsi

I have a 94-95 gsr. It's running 10-30 castrol in it now. I like to rev somethimes, more then others. Should I switch over to full synthetic?

TheRealTegger

Sure. Can't hurt.

vladd

It'll probably burn off faster than regular oil.

el crapitan

this should have more to do with viscosity rather than the class of oil

vladd

I'm saying that with the same viscosity, the synthetic will burn off faster than the conventional.

el crapitan

but since the only place oil is burned is through the rings, i can't see how 2 oils of the same viscosity could slip past the rings at different rates. or maybe the synthetic sticks to the walls more? i dunno.

TheRealTegger

No it won't. Same viscosity, same burn-rate.

TOO MUCH TORQUE

synthetic is a waste of money. your gsr engine will run fine with conventional and see no benefits with synthetic.

TunerN00b

You can normally go with a longer change interval on most synthetics if the car came with conventional.

However, since Honda specified a 7,500 mile interval on conventional for the car, I'm not entirely sure I'd risk a longer one.

vladd

Haha. Are you saying that just to say it? Do a search and let me know what you find. When people switch to synthetic, they get more oil leaks, and it burns off faster as well. With both being the same rated viscosity, the synthetic is thinner.

I agree. Unless the manufacturer specifically calls for synthetic, it's generally a waste of money.

TheRealTegger

No it doesn't and no it's not.

Synthetics do not "cause leaks", do not "burn off", and are not "thinner".

Anybody can post to the Internet, and anybody does. The fact of having been posted does not lend any post any sort of veracity.

vladd

Damn, you're an idiot.

copy

Hi,
I have heard plenty of horror story's when synth's first came out. Basically all the oil leaking out the engine and the engine burning up. I also remember hearing that if you started a brand new car with synthetic oil the chances of this were less then if you changed later when the car was old. I think they also sell a half and half oil that suppose to provide the best aspects of mineral oil and synthetic oil.
If it was me i would see what your owners manual says about it. If the manual says okay I would then call up a service writer and ask him if he see's any cars come in with problems because synthetic oil.
It has survived on the retail market for a very long time so im guessing they may have gotten the bugs out of it.

TOO MUCH TORQUE

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php

spend a week there and you'll learn a bunch

vladd

Thanks dad, but I've known about that site for quite some time.

When you switch from conventional oil to synthetic on an older car, it could start leaking in areas where the conventional oil was too thick to go through. It's not that the synthetic oil causes new leaks per se, but that the wear that was already there is enough for the synthetic to go through, but not the conventional.

TheRealTegger

No.

TOO MUCH TORQUE

you've known about it right, but have you spent time reading??

apparently not. you have been drilled with misinformed information...

just to help you get started...a oil's thickness is based on it's CST 100 number, not whether it is synthetic or dino.

copy

Hi again,
I just remembered that on a new car the rings wont seat if synthetic is used within the first 3000 miles. Only mineral oil will properly seat new rings. I guess the consequences of changing to synthetic before this mileage would be excessive oil loss from blowby.
I also heard they say now that you don't have to keep a new car below 50 miles per hour for the first 500 miles. I don't believe that you should drive faster than 50 for the 1st 500 miles, so don't buy into not doing that !

el crapitan

i think you're having trouble grasping the concept of oil pour point, ie viscosity. an oil's viscosity is not discriminant of it's chemical make up.
a 10w30 conventional oil is the same viscosity as a 10w30 full synthetic. same pour points. they would both leak at the same rate

el crapitan

pretty sure that interval is outdated. conventional oils of today have a much higher level of detergents than they did in say the 90's and therefore must be changed more frequently

TOO MUCH TORQUE

there are also thin, medium, thick 10w-30 weights. it will be called a 10w-30 if it falls within a specified range. i think to be called a 10w-30, the 30 has to fall between roughly 9.8-12.5 CST @ 100C. So with that said, it wont all burn at the same rate.

vladd

You sure do make a lot of deep, insightful posts around here.

I never said anything about how an oil's thickness is determined, so I'm not sure what your point is.

dc_jdm_dreams

You could go on and on about this topic. There is so much miss information out there about conventional vs. synthetic oils. With my experiences i have had cars that love the synthetic stuff like my RB25dett swapped 240sx, my current dc4, and my 2010 accord But i have also had cars that hated synthetic like my 240 with the ka24de motor in it, my old explorer, and my old suburban. And why this was IDK the only car that i knew why it hated it was in my 240sx.

TheRealTegger

Right. And an oil can fall anywhere within that range whether it's synthetic or mineral, so the burn-rate has nothing to do with synthetic or mineral.

Some people have a tendency to confuse symptoms and causes. Just because B follows A does not mean A caused B.

el crapitan

well, to be fair, i did say leak not burn. but i get what you're saying. and it still means that there should be no discrimination between synthetic and conventional as far as it's consumption goes.