BaSubScribe

The car is constantly being put into limp mode with a U0107 Code. I have replaced the APP Sensor mounted on the passenger side of the firewall and the entire Throttle Body Unit but I still get the U0107 code and subsequent limp mode. As far as driving conditions are concerned it always seems to happen on the highway or shortly after leaving the highway. After changing the TB and APP sensor I am now at a lost as to what the problem can be since it is the only code being thrown out.

Please allow me to explain the 1st occurrence because I believe a little history might be helpful. The first time happened during a long drive from New York to Miami. I made it all the way to Jacksonville (approximately 1000 miles) nonstop only to refuel with no problems and all of a sudden LIMP MODE. Right before the car went into limp mode, I started to feel cold AC water drip on my drivers pedal foot. I believe that was from an EXTREMELY clogged and dirty air filter overworking the AC as opposed to a clogged drain. After changing the AC filter I have not had that problem. The car gave two codes. The first was P2138 and the second was U0107. I unplugged the battery, checked into a hotel, and finish the trip to Miami in the morning. Those were the only two codes to ever show up on the generic readers. The P2138 has not returned, only the U0107.

I have tried searching your site for problems specific to mine but couldn't come up with anything resembling it.

Lost Again

Have you tested/looked into the throttle actuator control relay or module for issues? Both are located on the pass side.......so if the ac drain/filter got clogged and allowed water onto those there could be an issue with them.

I'll admit, it is a reach but given the "prior"/initial issue - BTW that is always helpful - that is where I would start.

tech8

U0107 is Lost communication with Throttle Actuator Control Module

One of the first things to check are poor connections or loose terminals at the throttle body, the throttle actuator control module, and the ECM/PCM.

Since you replaced the throttle body, you should check the connections and terminals at the throttle body. Make sure the 6-P Blk connector on the throttle body is good and the terminals are okay.

If it was a clogged evaporator drain hose; possibly can cause problem with ECM/PCM. The throttle actuator control module is kind of further up on the passenger side; so, it probably wouldn't be affected from a clogged evaporator or drain hose.

So, check the connections and terminals at the throttle body first.

BaSubScribe

It was not a reach. That was the problem. As soon as I plugged out the relay module, I was able to reproduce the problem. $12.00 to replace the part. Thank you for the diagram you posted. But I think the moisture buildup from the clogged AC drain coupled with using the cruise control for 18 hours straight damaged the relay. Thanks for the assistance.

cdthoms

I am posting because I have been experiencing the same issue and getting Code U0107 on 2006 Honda Accord 4cyl. I am a car novice, but can anyone tell me how to reach the throttle actuator relay? I have some experience with car stereo installation, so there's that which may help me. Quick background: car started to decelerate on highway after 2500 rpm and then would jerk when trying to come to a halt under 20mph, but would still cruise. Now, check engine light on and anytime I get to cruising speed and above 2500rpm, the issue recurs. Any help is much obliged!

BaSubScribe

The only way to access it is through the glove box. The glove box easily comes out by depressing the two notches on the side when it is open. Its the same process for changing the AC filter. You might want to check that as well. You will see the relays on the left.

Ronquest1

I fixed this DTC U0107 code for my son about a year ago after jumping through a lot of hoops and trying different fixes that never worked, and wherein that U0107 kept coming back and also going into limp mode. BUT WHAT FINALLY WORKED WAS...replacing the "Throttle Actuator Control Module RELAY as noted in the article. But also as noted the relay immediately adjacent to this one, and on the same wire harness, is ... "Seat Heater Relay". I pulled both relays, and to my surprise, both these relays are the exact same size,same configuration, and same rating. So, in a pinch, just swap the relays and you should be good. Only other vague recollection is whether I first unhooked the negative battery ground. For I did that many times in trying different fixes, but just can't be sure as to whether I did so before replacing this relay. But remember if you unhook the negative battery cable then you will need your security code to put your radio back on line. Oh, and one other thing, you may be able to get at that relay without removing the glove compartment. Those two relays are located UNDER the passenger dashboard, extreme left side by the edge of the transmission hump and almost at the firewall. The picture shown here is with the glove compartment removed.

Endyz

I need a your help guys. My car is a 2011 Honda crosstour with just 37k miles on it. Recently it developed an annoying problem. The check engine and vsa lights come on simultaneously then the throttle becomes unresponsive, it doesn't drive past 20 mph afterwards. Turning the car off, and restarting after a few minutes seems to rid it of the problem for a while, but the issue reoccurs. The longer I leave it off, the longer it stays problem-free.

The Honda dealership updated the ECM but the problem persists. They have a difficult time knowing for sure what the problem is because it is intermittent, hence replicating the problem isn't easy .

I was able to pull up OBD code P2118, throttle body actuator malfunction...

Has anyone had a similar experience, or can offer advice?

Thanks guys

Lost Again

Well an issue that shows up every now and then is never fun.

Suggets a service manual so you can do some testing - only have one for the 10 Accord so it won't help much on your '11